Keep the stock, skip the rest. Brown 8 ounces chopped ham and 1 chopped onion in olive oil. Add the stock and 3 cups coo

Substitute chunks of kielbasa for ground beef, butter for olive oil (skip the carrot). Use red cabbage. Skip the raisins, cinnamon, and tomatoes, and substitute 1 to 2 cups of beer, plus ¼ to ½ cup cider, red wine, or sherry vinegar for the stock.

To shred cabbage, cut the head into quarters, slice out the hard white core, and cut crosswise into thin strips (to shred napa cabbage, just cut the whole thing crosswise). Whatever method you use to shred cabbage for coleslaw (maybe you have one of those old-fashioned wooden graters) will work here. These recipes should serve four generously.

Forget everything but the cabbage. Rub the bowl with a garlic clove; add 1 egg yolk, a few chopped anchovies, ½ cup grated Parmesan, the juice of 1 lemon, 6 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper. Whisk; add the cabbage and toss.

Sauté 1 pound ground beef, 1 chopped onion, and 1 chopped carrot in 2 tablespoons olive oil until browned. Add chopped leaves of 1 small Savoy cabbage (about 6 cups), ¼ cup raisins, and a pinch of cinnamon. Cover and cook until the cabbage wilts, then add a 28-ounce can of whole tomatoes (with juice) and ½ cup stock. Simmer, partly covered, until the cabbage is tender and the sauce thickens. Garnish: parsley.

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e words “Chief Technology Officer” written in an offer letter, I failed a lot. I paid my dues, slogging through 13 startups, building software, and growing businesses. I later found that my startup death march gave me all but one of the critical tools to be successful.

Use green cabbage. Substitute chicken thigh chunks for beef; 1 tablespoon each minced garlic, ginger, and fresh chile for carrot; 1 tablespoon curry powder for cinnamon; and 15 ounces coconut milk for tomatoes. Garnish: cilantro and lime.

Use Napa cabbage. Add 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, and 4 pieces star anise. Substitute 8 ounces thinly sliced beef for shiitakes, fish sauce for soy, lime juice for vinegar, and 4 ounces soaked rice noodles for tofu. Garnish: cilantro, mint, sliced chiles.

Substitute red cabbage for Napa, walnuts for peanuts, and a sliced green apple for mint. Skip the Thai flavors. Crisp 4 ounces chopped bacon in olive oil. Stir in 1 tablespoon Dijon, chopped shallot, and lots of pepper; toss with cabbage.

Bring 8 cups chicken stock to a boil with 2 tablespoons each minced garlic and fresh ginger. Add 8 ounces sliced fresh shiitakes and 5 cups shredded napa cabbage; cook until softened, 5 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons soy sauce, ¼ cup rice vinegar, 1 cup tofu cubes, and black pepper. Cook 3 to 4 minutes. Garnish: chopped fresh cilantro, scallions.

Before we get to cabbage (I know… the anticipation), I wanted to let you know that on Tuesday, November 10, from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m. EST I’ll be doing a live (virtual) event all about Thanksgiving 2020. The event is a collaboration with Knowable — the company that just launched my audiocourse, How To Eat Now — and will hopefully be both fun and useful. We’ll talk about the unique challenges of Thanksgiving in 2020, how to de-stress the holiday in this unprecedentedly stressful year, how to shop, cook, host, etc. Anyone in the audience can ask me whatever they want, which I love. You can register for the event here. It’s totally free, though a donation to support One Fair Wage is always appreciated. I hope you’ll join. Now, on to cabbage.

The Toobins get talking heads spots on cable news networks. They often look like him, too. “Diversity” at media companies gets siloed into social media and low-paying editorial roles, the cogs that allow the machine to keep turning, lets the Toobins keep, uh, cranking along. The low-paid grunt workers feed the content mines, absorb the social blowback from a hastily written headline, and allow for the Toobins of the world to continue their largely metaphorical — but sometimes literal — masturbatory practices.

To celebrate the flexibility of cabbage (OK, maybe “commend” is a more suitable word for such a humble vegetable), here are 12 recipes that I turn to throughout the season. They’re broken into four categories: Braised, Raw, Soup, and Stir-Fried. I suppose you could call the raw ones “slaw,” though none of them bear any resemblance to the stuff that’s drowning in mayo and sugar. The other three methods here do apply heat, ranging from the hot blast of the skillet to the gentleness of a braise to a quick bath in a bubbling broth. Taste often for doneness; the key is to let the cabbage soften and lose its raw edge while still retaining some of its crunch. (For whatever it’s worth, and if you’re so inclined, cabbage is also really incredible on the grill.)

Put about 12 cups shredded Napa cabbage in a large bowl with ½ cup chopped peanuts and 1 cup chopped mint. Combine 3 tablespoons fish sauce, 1 to 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon neutral oil, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, the juice of 1 lime, and some minced fresh hot chile to taste; whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the dressing to the cabbage and toss.

I’ve made suggestions for which type of cabbage to use in which recipes, but you should feel free to substitute. No matter what kind of cabbage you buy, look for tightly packed heads; they should feel heavy for their size, and not have any loose or yellowing leaves.

Cabbage has never been the sexiest of vegetables, but damn — is it useful, versatile, and delicious. It’s something I want in my fridge at all times throughout fall and winter, not only because it keeps for a long time (no quick-thinking required), but because, depending on how you cook it, it can be rich and luxurious (total cold-weather comfort), or fresh and bright (a perfect change of pace).