The dream appeared to be quite achievable. Famous coaches surrounded me, and I frequently shared the boxing gym with suc

Not only have salad businesses like Sweetgreen been hurt by the collapse of the office economy, but also, in this time of acute stress, salads — especially a takeout salad — just don’t hold the same appeal. Erin Wade, a sustainable farmer, writer, and restaurateur based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, describes her three Vinaigrette restaurants, the first of which opened in 2008, as “Sweetgreen if it had been founded by a woman.”

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t with this weirdly doubled illusion — that the text was permanent but also permanently revisable, during the summer of 1998 when it felt like I kept revising — and ruining — the first 30 pages of my first novel’s manuscript. Three years into my work on my second novel, The Queen of the Night, I took to using a vintage Olympia typewriter, like the one Patricia Highsmith preferred, because the paradoxical feeling of “writing” a book onto a surface that already looked like a book, but could also be revised forever, paralyzed me. When I named these different files this sad, horrible way, using “final,” it was an aspirational gesture. “The boy who cried ‘novel,’ as I put it. Or really, “the boy who cried ‘I finished my novel.’”

In 2019, Restaurant Business named Sweetgreen “Tech Accelerator of the Year,” a distinction it had bestowed the previous year on Domino’s. If anyone should have been poised to become the iconic salad chain for the Great 2020 Pivot to Takeout, it was supposed to be Sweetgreen. But Covid-19 changed all that.

Remote Work Is Killing the Hidden Trillion-Dollar Office Economy From airlines to Starbucks, a massive part of our economy hinges on white-collar workers returning to the officemarker.medium.com

By 2017, the founders were running out of the $165 million they had raised — just as foot traffic was beginning to level off in its stores. So they made a bold decision: They doubled down on the “restaurant chain as tech company” narrative and promised to turn the company into a “disruptive innovation machine.” They plowed cash into their online ordering app, halted new store openings in favor of opening delivery-only “ghost kitchens,” and raised an additional $200 million to build what Inc. described as “a food platform that is as dialed into each customer’s micro­biome and barre routine — and perhaps 23andMe profile — as it is tracking its farmers’ crops through the blockchain for peak freshness and taste.”

Like the Sweetgreen trio, she wanted to help change the food system by creating demand for sustainable produce via addictively delicious salads. But Wade does not believe that goal can be achieved in a to-go container procured via smartphone — or that her food can compete with the comforting power of pizza, at least not in its current takeout form. “Pizza triggers deep, deep, deep childhood memories.” she says. “Melted cheese in any form just takes you to a certain place” — whereas boxed salads remind you of “the office.”

To reach those deep recesses of our hippocampi that trigger cravings of certain foods like salad, Wade argues, her guests need to be able to sit down at a table, put away the phone, inhale the aromas of warm food dropping onto nearby tables, and absorb “the magic of a busy restaurant, which at its essence is a place you go to breathe other people’s air.” While Wade’s revenues have recovered to almost 70% of their year-ago levels thanks to takeout business, the experience has been discouraging. “I almost can’t breathe standing on the line stuffing order after order into compostable boxes that I know aren’t going into anyone’s compost pile,” she says. “I’m just worried we’re going to emerge from this with a deep-seated germophobia, if only because we are filling our landfills with fucking to-go containers.” Just thinking about it all, she says, “makes me want a pizza.”

The trouble for Domino’s had actually started a decade earlier, after founder Tom Monaghan sold the company to private equity firm Bain Capital. Bain extracted some $2 billion from the chain over the course of its ownership, mostly by floating high-interest debt and making budget cuts resulting in a pizza sauce that focus groups likened to ketchup. By 2008, a consumer survey revealed that the average American ranked Domino’s, which had just debuted its beloved “order tracker” feature, first among pizza chains for “convenience” purposes but dead last in the realm of “taste.”

Meanwhile, the great pizza depression of 2008–09 inspired financiers to explore slightly less profitable avenues in their search for the next big quick-serve cash cow, and a little salad chain called Sweetgreen was busy casting itself as the Domino’s of salad. Sweetgreen’s three founders went to great lengths to paint their business as a tech company, not a restaurant group, even as Sweetgreen had committed to the expensive process of not just washing and chopping but also marinating (and roasting and blanching and blackening) dozens of high-quality locally grown ingredients and making 18 dressings from scratch each morning.

Not only have salad businesses like Sweetgreen been hurt by the collapse of the office economy, but also, in this time of acute stress, salads — especially a takeout salad — just don’t hold the same appeal.

The mass shift to remote work is the salad industry’s most conspicuous problem: Nearly all the chains are heavily reliant on capturing the office-worker lunch rush, so much so that Sweetgreen has an entire arm of its business devoted to delivering salads in bulk to offices free of charge. Even author and New York Times columnist Jessica Grose, who is such an aficionado of the $15 salad that she wrote a book called Sad Desk Salad, hasn’t eaten Sweetgreen since February, when she had the buffalo chicken salad three times in two weeks. And Grose doesn’t plan on returning until she’s forced to go back to the office, which won’t be until next July at the earliest. There’s a Sweetgreen not too far from her Brooklyn apartment, but “when we get takeout, we usually try to get it from neighborhood restaurants” — or Domino’s, because “sometimes the kids, like, specifically request it.”

In 1992, I signed up for a boxing development program meant to groom talent for the national boxing team. The national boxing board had planned to build a solid Olympic boxing team in four years — in time for the 1996 games in Atlanta. Clearly, they shared my ambition.

Domino’s overhauled all its recipes and produced a series of disarmingly sincere commercials about the new and improved taste. Sales began to rise almost instantaneously, but somehow the company’s dramatic reversal of fortune was credited to the chain’s supposed metamorphosis into a “technology company that happens to sell pizza,” juicing PR with stunts like testing delivery drones and self-driving cars in its supposed “quest for 10-minute pizza delivery.”

You might assume that pizza is a recession food, while salad is not, but the landscape for both has shifted remarkably since the last recession. Pizza sales, particularly at Domino’s, plummeted during the financial crisis of 2008–2009. At the time, pundits blamed the economy, the dollar menu, and Lehman Brothers, which had underwritten one of the pizza chain’s lines of credit. Back then, Domino’s was a $3 stock; it is now close to a $400 stock. The same pundits telling us now that pizza is “recession-proof” described it then as an unaffordable extravagance. “You can’t go into a Pizza Hut or Domino’s and spend $3 or $4 and get a meal… It’s a pretty high average check,” a restaurant analyst said at the time.

To reach those deep recesses of our hippocampi that trigger cravings of certain foods like salad, Wade argues, her guests need to be able to sit down at a table, put away the phone, inhale the aromas of warm food dropping onto nearby tables, and absorb “the magic of a busy restaurant, which at its essence is a place you go to breathe other people’s air.” While Wade’s revenues have recovered to almost 70% of their year-ago levels thanks to takeout business, the experience has been discouraging. “I almost can’t breathe standing on the line stuffing order after order into compostable boxes that I know aren’t going into anyone’s compost pile,” she says. “I’m just worried we’re going to emerge from this with a deep-seated germophobia, if only because we are filling our landfills with fucking to-go containers.” Just thinking about it all, she says, “makes me want a pizza.”